Continuous Bias Binding Chart
A single square of fabric can be cut into one long continuous strip of bias binding. This chart shows what you can expect at the most common 2.25-inch strip width, rounded down to a safe estimate.
Binding yield from a fabric square
Cut the square, fold it into a tube on the true bias, then cut around the tube to produce one continuous strip. The values below assume a 2.25-inch cut width and already subtract roughly 5-10% for joining seams and trimming.
| Fabric square | Approx. continuous binding | Approx. yards |
|---|---|---|
| 12" | 55-60" | 1 3/4 yd |
| 18" | 130-145" | 4 yd |
| 21" | 185-200" | 5 1/2 yd |
| 24" | 245-260" | 7 yd |
| 27" | 310-330" | 9 yd |
| 30" | 380-405" | 11 yd |
| 36" (1 yd of 44" fabric) | 560-580" | 16 yd |
Which square do I need for my quilt?
Binding length is the quilt perimeter plus about 12 inches for the diagonal joins and corner miters. The table below shows the safe square size for common finished quilt sizes. For exact strip and yardage numbers, use the bias binding calculator or the straight-grain binding calculator.
| Quilt size (approx.) | Binding needed | Safe square |
|---|---|---|
| Lap 50" × 60" | ≈ 232" | 24" |
| Twin 68" × 86" | ≈ 320" | 27" |
| Full 81" × 96" | ≈ 366" | 30" |
| Queen 90" × 102" | ≈ 396" | 30" |
| King 108" × 108" | ≈ 444" | 36" (1 yd) |
How the continuous method works
Step 1: Cut a square and mark lines across it on the true bias (45° to the selvedge), spaced at your strip width.
Step 2: Offset the edges by one strip width and sew the square into a tube with a 1/4-inch seam.
Step 3: Cut along the marked lines in one continuous spiral around the tube.
The result is one long strip with the stretch of bias, ideal for curved edges and for fabric that would look wrong cut on the grain.
How to read the chart
The first table gives the theoretical yield of a fabric square at 2.25-inch strip width, rounded down about 5-10% to leave room for the seams that join the tube and for trimming. The second table reverses the question: it starts from a finished quilt size, adds the usual 12 inches of joining allowance, and finds the smallest square that safely covers the binding length.
The yields assume a clean square and a careful tube seam at a scant 1/4 inch. If you sew wider seams, press loosely, or fussy-cut the binding, your yield drops — add 10-20% on top of the chart for print matching, and treat the numbers as a floor rather than a promise.
Two shortcuts make the chart useful without math. First, remember that yield scales with area: doubling the square roughly quadruples the binding length, because both dimensions grow. Second, wider strips shorten the yield proportionally: going from 2.25" to 2.5" cut width removes about 10% of the length, while going down to 2" adds about 12%. Keep the chart in your sewing room and you can answer most "will this square be enough?" questions before you cut.
Common questions
How much continuous bias binding do I get from a yard of fabric?
From a 36-inch square (one yard of 44-inch fabric), you get roughly 15-16 yards of 2.25-inch binding after seams. Wider strips produce proportionally less length.
Is bias binding stronger than straight-grain binding?
Bias binding wears better on curved edges because the diagonal weave distributes stress. On straight edges both hold up well, and straight-grain uses noticeably less fabric.
Do I need to add the joining allowance on top of the chart?
No. The chart values already account for the diagonal joining seams and a little trimming waste. If you are matching a print, add 10-20% on top.
What if I cut 2.5-inch strips instead?
Multiply the chart yields by about 0.9 (roughly 10% less length). For 2-inch strips, add about 12% more length.
Where does the yield formula come from?
The theoretical yield is the square's area divided by the strip width. The chart rounds down for seams, which is the common approach in quilting references and extension guides.